Xj900 manual

Place an oil pan under the final rated GL5 or GL6 may also be used. Fuel tank 1. Fuel hose 3. Remove the fuel tank bolts. Remove the air filter case cover by 3. Fuel sender coupler 4. Disconnect the fuel sender cou- removing the screws. Page Adjusting The Carburetors Therefore, most car- checked and, if necessary, adjusted as buretor adjustments should be left to a follows at the intervals specified in the Yamaha dealer, who has the neces- periodic maintenance and lubrication sary professional knowledge and expe- chart.

To prevent this from occurring, the valve clearance must be adjusted by a Yamaha dealer at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance and lubrication chart. Throttle cable free play Page 61 Yamaha dealer replace the tire immediately.

CEE Minimum tire tread depth 1. Tire air valve TR Valve core A original Page Cast Wheels If any damage is 1. Locknut 1. Locknut found, have a Yamaha dealer re- 2. Clutch lever free play adjusting bolt 2. Clutch lever free play adjusting nut place the wheel. Do not attempt c. Page Adjusting The Brake Pedal Position If there is air in the hydraulic system, have a Yamaha dealer bleed the system be- fore operating the motorcycle. Air in the hydraulic system will diminish a. Distance between brake pedal and footrest 1.

Page Checking The Front And Rear Brake Pads If a brake pad has worn to the point that the wear indicator grooves have almost disappeared, have a Yamaha dealer replace the brake pads as a set. Page Checking The Brake Fluid Level A low brake flu- leakage and poor braking perfor- denly, have a Yamaha dealer id level may indicate worn brake pads mance.

If the Page Changing The Brake Fluid EAU EAU Changing the brake fluid Checking and lubricating the Checking and lubricating the Have a Yamaha dealer change the cables throttle grip and cable brake fluid at the intervals specified in The operation of all control cables and The operation of the throttle grip should Recommended lubricant: Lithium-soap-based grease Hold the lower ends of the front fork legs and try to move them for- ward and backward.

If any free play can be felt, have a Yamaha dealer check repair steering. Page Battery Avoid any contact with To charge the battery skin, eyes or clothing and al- Have a Yamaha dealer charge the bat- ways shield your eyes when tery as soon as possible if it seems to working near batteries. In case have discharged. Page Replacing The Fuses 5. Main fuse cess to a sealed-type MF bat- The main fuse and the fuse box, which 6. Signaling system fuse contains the fuses for the individual cir- dealer charge your battery.

Page Replacing The Headlight Bulb 2. Unhook the headlight bulb holder, 4. If the fuse immediately blows EAU and then remove the defective Replacing the headlight bulb again, have a Yamaha dealer bulb.

This motorcycle is equipped with a check the electrical system. EW quartz bulb headlight. Do not overtighten the screws, oth- Do not overtighten the screw, other- 5. Have a Yamaha dealer adjust the erwise the lens may break.

Page Front Wheel 4. Remove the brake calipers by re- EW remove the wheel. Fill the fork with air using an air pump or pressurized air supply.

Refer to "Front fork and rear shock absorber adjustment" for proper air pressure adjusting. Maximum air pressure: kPa 1. Since the right and left front forks are connected by one air hose, there is only one valve where the air pressure is measured and adjusted. Elevate the front wheel by placing the motorcycle on the centerstand.

NOTE: When checking and adjusting the air pressure, there should be no weight on the front end of the motorcycle. If the air pressure is increased, the suspension becomes stiffer and if decreased, it becomes softer. To increase: Use an air pump or pressurized air supply To decrease: Release the air by pushing the valve. An optional air check gauge is available. Please ask a nearby Yamaha dealer. The rear shock absorber of this model features a spring seat, which is a combined spring preload and damping adjuster.

Normal adjustment can be made by turning this spring seat; whereas damping adjustment only can be made by the damping adjuster. Turn in the damping adjuster fully. For alignment in the absence of the red paint, turn the damping adjuster 6 clicks back from the fully turned-in position. To increase the preload, turn the spring seat clockwise.

To decrease the preload, turn the spring seat counterclockwise. NOTE: When adjusting, use the special wrench which is included in the owner's tool kit. To increase the damping, turn the adjuster clockwise. To decrease the damping, turn the adjuster counterclockwise. NOTE: Make adjustment in less than one full turn of the adjuster. Recommended combinations of the front fork and the rear shock absorber settings. Use this table as guidance to meet specific riding and motorcycle load conditions.

The damping adjuster may be further turned for a softer or a harder damping; in each of the above settings, it is recommended that the damping be adjusted by one 1 or two 2 clicks on the softer side and one 1 click on the harder side. Anti-dive adjustment. NOTE: Yamaha made a serious error in the original owner's manual regarding the anti-dive adjustment on the RK essentially had it backwards. This is the corrected information, as per the September 1, TSB:.

Remove the rubber cap from the bottom of the anti-dive unit. Look at the head of the adjusting bolt through the slots in the bottom of the anti-dive unit. In the standard position, two lines will be visible on the adjusting bolt head. Consult the fork adjustment chart below to determine the proper setting.

To decrease the anti-dive effect turn the adjusting bolt clockwise until the first line appears level to the top of the machined slot s. CAUTION: When the first line appears in the machined slot s , the adjusting bolt will bottom in the anti-dive unit and a resistance will be felt. Do not attempt to turn the adjusting bolt beyond this point or the anti-dive unit will be damaged. To increase the anti-dive effect, turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise.

Hence, be sure to perform the above procedure on both anti-dive units. This model has been equipped with the automatic cam chain tensioner. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. Firing range for No. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed.

The stationary pointer should be within the limits of "["]" on the timing plate. Never bend the stationary pointer. Lift and loosen the electric fitting housing box from the frame.

Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it. Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case. The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals.

The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. No attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment. The seat must be removed and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and synchronizing screw.

The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors. The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle. Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold No.

Remove the rubber caps from the No. Insert the YICS shut-off tool special tool fully and flip the locking lever. Start the engine and allow it to warm up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when the engine responds normally to the throttle opening. If it is not adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw. With the YICS shut off tool fitted, the engine speed generally drops a little.

Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. First, synchronize carburetor No. Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. Third, by adjusting No. Carburetors must be synchronized before setting the final idle speed. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw. Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in to increase engine speed or out to decrease engine speed.

Place the motorcycle on its centerstand. Warm up the engine for several minutes. Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings. With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crankcase cover. Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking.

The oil level should be between maximum level and minimum marks. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level. Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the oil filler cap. Install the new oil filter element new CD-ring and filter cover; tighten the oil filter bolt.

Make sure the O-ring is positioned properly. SE motor oil. Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the crankcase. The oil level indicator light should go off after the oil is filled.

If the indicator light flickers or remains on, the oil level switch may be damaged. Place the motorcycle on a level place and place it on the centerstand. The engine should be cool at atmospheric temperature. Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level whether it is to the hole brim. If it is not up to this level, replenish oil. Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the final gear case.

Remove the final gear oil filler cap and the drain plug, and drain the oil. Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings. Turn over the engine with the electric starter make sure the battery is fully charged with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further. When cranking the engine, ground the removal spark plug leads to prevent sparking.

If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measured. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before without oil , the piston rings may be worn or damaged.

If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause. Check each cylinder. Compression pressure should not vary more than Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature.

Remove the seat and remove the fuel tank holding clip and retainer. Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover pick-up base cover. Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces. Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter.

Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle. Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the valve lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No.

The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter not the cam. Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:. Select proper pad from appropriate chart intake or exhaust chart. Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect record the measured amount of clearance.

This must be measured carefully. There is a slot in the valve lifter. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed. Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position.

The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad. If the cam lobe touches the tappet adjusting tool, the stress may fracture the cylinder head. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: view from left side of the motorcycle. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad.

Note the number on the pad. Chart lookup method:. Refer to the appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves:. Find number of original installed pad number on chart. Read down on chart. Find measured valve clearance from step 1 on chart. Read across. At the intersection of installed pad number down and measured clearance across is a new pad number. Intake valve, installed pad: No.

Alternate shim calculation method:. Since all shims come in. If the measured clearance is within 0. If the measured clearance greater than 0. Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims. Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.

Measured clearance is 0. Installed shim is Y Required shim is one size thinner: Y The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step s. Install the new pad in the lifter. Install the pad with the number down. Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter. Check valve clearance step 3.

If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the engine in order to remove the cylinder head, cylinder, or pistons. All dirt, mud, dust and foreign material should be thoroughly removed from the exterior of the engine before removal and disassembly.

This will help prevent any harmful foreign material from engine oil. Before the engine removal and disassembly, be sure that you have the proper tools and cleaning equipment so that you can perform a clean and efficient job.

During disassembly of the engine, clean and place all of the parts in trays in order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly time and help insure correct reinstall-action of all the engine parts.

Place the motorcycle on its center stand. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Stop the engine and drain the engine oil. Remove the left and right side covers, and remove the left and right oil cooler covers. Remove the seat and remove the fuel tank securing clamp and retainer. Lift the rear end of the fuel tank and disconnect the fuel pipe and vacuum pipe from the cock. Disconnect the fuel sender unit lead, and remove the fuel tank.

Disconnect all connectors from the electrical components holding plate. Remove the electrical components holding plate. Loosen the clamp bolts securing the exhaust pipes to the right and left mufflers. Remove the exhaust pipes. Remove the starter motor lead from the starter relay and disconnect the relay leads from the wire harness. Remove the negative lead from the battery terminal then remove the positive lead. Remove the battery. Remove the clamps holding the carburetors to theair filter case and intake maniholds.

Remove the crankcase ventilation hose at the air filter case. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor throttle lever and remove the carburetor assembly to the left. Do not forget to remove this clamp before removing the engine. Remove the oil cooler holding bolts and clamp. Remove the oil cooler assembly. Remove the coil spring holding the rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot from the drive shaft coupling to expose the joint bolts. Remove the front engine mounting bolts and nuts.

Remove the brackets. Remove the rear engine mounting bolts and right and left footrests. Slide the engine forward slightly and remove the engine to the right.

NOTE: Position a box or other support to the right side of the motorcycle for the assistance when removing the engine. Remove the alien bolt that holds the timing plate. Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Starter motor and generator. Remove the starter motor securing bolts and remove the motor assembly.

Install the rotor holding tool special tool on the rotor as shown and remove the rotor holding bolt. Insert the holding tool as shown and insert the rotor puller adapter special tool into the rotor shaft and screw in the rotor puller special tool. Remove the rotor. Release the tension evenly on the 6 mm bolts and remove the clutch pressure plate and clutch springs.

Straighten the lock washer tab. Use the clutch boss holder special tool to hold the clutch boss and remove the lock nut and lock washer. Screw in a suitable length of 6 mm bolt into the one of the threaded holes on the collar and pull out the collar and needle bearing from the primary driven gear.

Remove the primary driven gear assembly and oil pump drive sprocket. Remove the oil pump secruing bolts and remove the sprocket cover and oil pump assembly. Remove the middle driven gear housing holding bolts. NOTE: If it is difficult to remove housing assembly, loosen the two crankcase bolts located near the middle driven gear housing.

Remove the upper crankcase bolts, starting the highest numbered bolt. Turn over the engine and remove the lower crankcase bolts. Separate the lower case from the engine. Use a soft rubber hammer to carefully separate the crankcase.

Straighten the lock washer tab and remove the bolt securing the starter idle gear shaft. Remove the shaft and starter idle gear. Remove the shift fork guide bar and shift forks. The shift forks are identified by numbers cast on their sides.

Remove the bolt securing the shift cam locating pin and remove the stopper plate and locating pin. Remove the driven shaft bearing cover holding screws and remove the bearing cover. Remove the 5th wheel gear from the driven shaft and pull out the driven shaft assembly. Use a 19 mm wrench on the timing plate flats to rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the engine is at Top Dead Centre. Always use the 19 mm flats provided on the timing plate to rotate this engine.

On this, it is not necessary to break the cam chain. However, it can be broken if so desired. It is easier to disassemble the engine without separating the chain. Remove the cam caps. Note the location ofthe cam caps as shown. Directional arrows are cast on each cap and point toward the clutch side. Fasten safety wire to the cam chain to prevent its falling into the crankcase cavity.

Slide the camshafts and sprockets from under the chain and remove the camshafts and sprockets. Remove the cylinder head bolts and nuts in the numerical order as shown. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the front cylinder holding nut and remove the cylinder assembly. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder lightly to loosen it from the base gasket. Remove the valve lifters and pads.

Be careful not to scratch the lifter bodies or lifter bores in the cylinder head. Be very careful to identify each lifters position so that it may be returned to its original place. Mount the valve spring compressor on the head and depress each valve spring.

Take out the retainer and valve spring with tweezers. NOTE: Deburr any deformed valve stem end. Use an oil stone to smooth the stem end. This will help prevent damage to the valve guide during valve removal. Use a small box to hold the parts and identify the original position of each lifter and valve.

Be very careful not to mix the location of these components. Place a clean towel or rag into the cranckcase to keep circlips and material from falling into the engine. Place head cover on a surface plate. There should be no warpage. Correct by re-surfacing as follows:. Place or grit wet sandpaper on surface plate and re-surface head cover using a figure-eight sanding pattern.

Rotate head cover several times to avoid removing too much material from one side. Using a rounded scraper, remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber. Take care to avoid damaging spark plug threads and valve seats.

Do not use a sharp instrument. Avoid scratching the aluminum. Check the cylinder head warpage with a straight edge as shown. The warpage should not exceed the specified limit, it necessary resurface. If the warpage exceeds allowable limit, the cylinder head should be replaced with a new one. Cylinder head warpage: less than 0. Check the valve face and the stem end for wear. Replace the valve if any dimension exceeds the specifications in the illustration. Click here to download your Yamaha xj owners manual Requirements:.

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Brake Servicing Procedures. Timing Chain Service. Exhaust Service. Abundant Illustrations. Plus Lots More. Categories: Yamaha.